Thursday, August 17, 2006

Lima-Arequipa-Colca Canyon-Cusco



Also eines schon mal vorweg. Die meiste Zeit der vergangenen Tage war ich im Bus unterwegs. Zuerst 14 Stunden von Lima nach Arequipa, dann 6 Stunden von Arequipa nach Cabanaconde (inklusive Reifenwechsel weil geplatzt), am naechsten Tag wieder 6 Stunden zurueck nach Arequipa und schlussendlich knapp 10 Stunden von Arequipa nach Cusco. Das waeren also alles in allem 36 Stunden Busfahrt innerhalb von 3 Tagen, also genau die Haelfte dieser Zeit. Muy muy mucho. Das Busfahren ist aber einigermassen gemuetlich (Sitze sind auch bei den alten Tuckerbussen bequemer als bei uns), mal abgesehen von der Tatsache, dass es mir sehr schwer faellt im Bus zu schlafen. Ein weiterer Bestandteil der letzten Tage war daher eine ziemlich durchgehende Muedigkeit.
Jetzt aber mal zu allem anderem als dem Busfahren. Ueber Lima gibt es nicht gerade viel zu schreiben. Wie mein erster Eindruck bestaetigte ein Molloch. Ich glaube beim entlang laufen an der Hauptstrasse hat sich meine Lebenserwartung um mindestens drei Jahre verkuerzt. Was die Autos und Busse da aus ihren Auspuffen raus lassen ist echt nicht sauber. Ich war in San Isidro, einem der nobleren Quartiere. Gefaellt mir gar nicht. Dieser Mischmasch aus westlich und Lateinamerika. Viele hohe Bankgebaeude, viele Leute in Anzuegen. Interessant ist auch, dass der Beruf des Schuhputzers in Lateinamerika scheinbar immer noch sehr angesagt ist.
Nach Lima gings dann nach Arequipa. Arequipa ist eine wirklich schoene Stadt auf etwa 2600 Meter Hoehe. Als ich ankam war gerade noch ein grosser Feiertag, wo die Armee aufgelaufen ist und einen Umzug gabs auch noch. Dort traf ich dann auch Cypi. Die Zeit in dieser huebschen Stadt war bestimmt zu kurz. Aber auf jeden Fall hat sie einen guten Eindruck hinterlassen. Am selben Tag noch sind wir dann noch nach Cabanaconde (ca. 3200 Meter) aufgebochen. Der Unterschied zwischen Land und Stadt ist hier wirklich frapant. Auf dem Land findet man meistens Steinhaeuser oder unfertige Betonkloetze, bei denen jeweils das Dach fehlt oder zumindest die Armierungseisen noch oben raus schauen. Bei der Fahrt haben wir unter anderem einen fast 5000 Meter hohen Pass ueberquert. Von der Hoehenkrankheit hab ich gluecklicherweise noch nicht gross was mit gekriegt. Am naechsten Tag gings dann weiter zum Mirador del Condor, einem Ausblickspunkt auf den Colca Canyon. Der Colca Canyon ist der zweittiefste Canyon der Welt. Die Aussicht ist einfach atemberaubend. Und als ob das noch nicht genug waere beginnen um ca. 09.00 noch die Kondore ihre Bahnen zu kreisen. Elegant ziehen die mit 3 Meter Spannweite riesigen Voegel in bis zu 4000 Metern Hoehe ihre Bahnen. Wahnsinn! Beid er Rueckfahrt war dann das gewaltige Colca Tal zu sehen, wo Landwitschaft betrieben wird. Auch Llamas und Alpacas koennen auf dem Hochland beim Grasen beobachtet werden.
Zurueck in Arequipa sind wir uns noch das grosse Nonnenkloster Santa Catalina anschauen gegangen. 400 Nonnen haben dazumals ihr Leben hinter diesen Mauern gefuehrt. Das Geleande ist riesig. Einzig die Bilder haben mich nicht ueberzeugt. Diese Heiligenkunst find ich nicht gerade so toll. Einmal Nonne mit Mann, einmal Nonne mit Frau, einmal Jesus mit Mann usw. Nicht sehr abwechslungsreich.
Nach dem Besuch im Kloster gings dann noch ins Zig Zag, ein von einem Berner gefuehrtes Restaurant. Dort haben wir die trilogia de carnes gehabt. Fleisch vom Alpaca, vom Strauss und natuerlich vom MuhMuh auf einer Steinplatte serviert. Dazu gabs Salat, Pommes und drei Saucen. Himmlisch! Lustig war noch, dass auf jedem der drei Fleischer ein Faehnchen steckte mit einer Abbildung des Tieres.
Gerade jetzt sind wir in Cusco, DER Stadt in Peru. Der placa de armas ist einfach hammer. Morgen werden wir dann entweder bicken gehen, paragliden oder Tempel anschauen gehn. Einen Tag spaeter gehts dann auf den urubamba river raften und am 22.August steigt dann der Inka Trail zum Machu picchu.

hasta luego

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